Friday, 20 May 2011

Our fanastic mazal.

I know some of you are probably picturing us rutting it out, sleeping in dirt, easting cardboard for dinner. Now that is the picture of truth most days, but not in Morungulo.

It was going to be our longest day on the road yet. 55 odd kilometers cycle to get to Morungulo campsite. Here we were going to do some serious relaxing. Zanni gave me the most incredible book - The State of Africa. Its been a treat to read while traveling Africa, and the plan was to put a serious dent in it on a hammock under a coconut tree. (Well, not properly under one. They actually do fall all the time and will kill you if you happen to be underneath at the time. They are also delicious and a great snack).

The cycle was grueling but fantastic. Up and down hills, huge trucks zoooming by, school kids running after us and pushing us up the hills, fresh bananas when you get too tired. Then we arrived at a dirt road and were too tired to push the bikes the 15km to the campsite. Luckily a bakkie drove past and we hooked a lift. More luckily however was that the driver was managing a 4 star lodge and arranged for us to stay there for next to nothing.

Beds, a pool, lush lawns, hot water, drinking water. The works! What fantastic mazal. We stayed there for a few days and while we weren't sleeping in tents, i did manage to put a serious dent in my book.

There are 3 massive reefs in the ocean just outside the lodge, so plenty of snorkeling and spearfishing. We were able to catch and cook up lunch one afternoon. Bon fires on the beach, trips on the back of the bakkie into town. Lazy evenings, drinking dosh-m and playing cards.

However when it came time to leave, we thought our luck had ended. We decided to hitch hike the next stretch of the journey to Vilunkulo (where i am now), as the distance was too far to do in one day. Also after consistent advice from locals, we have decided (for now at least) to avoid just camping out on the side of the road, or in villages which may be unwelcoming.

We had organized a ride from a neighbour in Morungolu in the back of his truck. Its a refrigerator truck that transports crabs. So it was going to be a fishy journey. And as Nugs coined it; "for the the gees". Unfortunately that fell through, so it was up to us to go into town and thumb a lift, bikes and all. After a few hours of waiting, we finally scored a lift to the Vilunkulo turn off, on the top of a cargo truck. We strapped our bikes down and sat on the roof with a few other guys, including a Mozambiquian solider who was very excited to have us up there. From there it was a short 20km cycle to Vilunkulo, a dosh-m and a big oats dinner.

Im not sure if its our good looks or dashing smiles. But so far people have been great to us. We have had doors opened, dinners cooked, rides offered. Not to get all spiritual about it, but maybe the vibes one puts out are the vibes that one gets back. And vibes are in general pretty good.

That being said, our luck and good fortune was to seriously change on our trip to Bangwe Island. Yet that is a tale for another day. So stay tuned for near death experiences, police, hurricanes and monsters...

Okay, maybe no monsters. But still, its a goodie. 

Eitan

ETA: Leave Vilankulo on Sunday to cycle to Inhassoro. Probably wont have internet for a while, so im taking advantage of it and writing up a few posts while im here. Hope yall enjoying it :)

3 comments:

  1. So jealous. Sounds fantastic! I'm heading away for the weekend to a hostel for some real western european backpacking. I wish I had a bus full of 21 year olds to be bound to. Hopefully I'll find one.

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  2. Fantastic! Northern Mozambique is only going to get better... Try taking the road inland from Nampula towards Malawi - incredible area...

    And the jumping on the back of the trucks is the best way to go - just keep some Meticais handy to pay the police road blocks (driver not legally allowed to take you on top...)

    Not sure if you ever read my book, Manic Mission, but if you want to, download it here:
    http://j.mp/f6Da93

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  3. Hey E. Love to read your blogging..what a great way to share your fantastic trip with all of us...and if you ever come across any monsters I'm pretty sure you'll charm also them with your "dashing smiles";-) ...!
    Looking forward to your next post to brighten up my daily italian office life!
    Love & hugs and take care of yourself and your friends.
    Juli

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